dimmers generally dont click if you can switch to dimmers.
dimmers generally dont click if you can switch to dimmers.
OP, please listen to this. IT closet, conduits.
all relatively good and common advise but the cable up sizing to 10/3 is absolute bizarre and a waste of money.
Home alarm system: 2-wire all door and window reed sensors to the IT closet. Use Konnected or something like that.
may as well just pay the $20-30 a month for a monitored system
but 4 cables to a door – 2 for a contact sensor, 2 for a shock sensor. assuming OP buys a proper door that can’t be kicked in. may as well have a notification.
4-6 for windows. 2 for a shock sensor if the glass is laminated – glass break sensors don’t work well, 2 for the contact sensor, 2 for shades.
OP, please listen to this. IT closet, conduits.
centralizing everything and having conduit here and there is great.
but jesus christ some of that is just bizarre, completely needless and would be a nightmare to work with.
up sizing all of the 12/2 cabling to 10/3? i’m pretty sure that might cause more than a few electricians to jump off a bridge or any electrical bid to be 5x higher than what it would normally cost even when excluding the cost of material difference.
about 1% of homes are ever broken into through picked locks. a software exploit is going to be even more rare
the majority of burglaries are from kicked in doors, unlocked doors and windows, smashed in glass.
unless a home already has laminated glass throughout, a euro style multi point locking door, a well designed security system and physical deterrents then a lock itself is the smallest concern.
even if all of those things are done, then a lock itself is still a very small concern.
the regular switches do. their 3 way switch and dimmers don’t, though.