If you’d otherwise be paying for 3 cloud services, you’d probably break even fairly quickly

Probably a snarky comment

(Since you got an answer already)

What’s a WiFi subscription?

I bought a Dymo from Walmart because it was the first one I saw. I bought the official refills off Amazon when the included one ran out, and they weren’t too expensive (when on sale).

I don’t know how Dymo compares to the brands/models you found, but I think that means that you don’t need to put too much thought into it.

I guess get a look at the keyboard and make sure it has all the keys you need, and maybe in the right order. Mine is A-Z instead of QWERTY, which is my only minor gripe with mine.

Still, I don’t regret my choice at all, and I (like you, I presume) tend to spend a lot of time analyzing my purchases.

My PC connected to a cat6 runs 950Mb max

Make sure both the routee and your PC have a port that supports more than 1gbps.

My router only has one 2.5gbps port, and not all MoBos (or NICs) support 2.5gbps.

Done it before when switching ISPs entirely (meaning new router and even IPs). Wifi is usually just SSID and password, no?

500 Mbps is the “up to” speed. Typical being half of that (at most) seems sketchy, unless those were 2 different plans.

Your ACTUAL speed will vary based on a bunch of different factors.

To get the most accurate result, you want to have a device capable of at least 500mbps (almost any laptop or desktop) plugged directly into your router with a Cat5e cable, and your router plugged directly into whatever is going outside. No switches or anything else in the way. And also make sure yours is the only connected device using the Internet while you run the test.

If you’re doing that and still getting 40Mb/s, then complain to your ISP if you’re sure your equipment is fine.

A common hardware spec for older/cheaper stuff is 10/100 Mb/s. Most will be 1000 Mbps (or 1Gbps), but if you’ve got an older device somewhere down the line, then you might end up getting limited by that.

If you’re on WiFi, try to get closer to your router. Depending on your device and router, you should be able to hit closer to the advertised 500 Mbps. Distance and other interference will decrease the speed you get.

Yeah, you should get a wired connection. Wifi will be inferior to wired ethernet in almost all situations.

If it’s impossible to get a wired connection, then you could look into things like Powerline Ethernet Adapters, a WiFi repeater or WiFi Extender, or a WiFi mesh setup.

I don’t use any of those, but those are some terms/devices you could look into

This is like asking “If I buy a refillable water bottle, do I still have to pay my water bill and turn on my faucet at home to fill it up?”

I guess you could connect over wifi from your device to your router…but if you want to access anything outside your home over the Internet, then you’d need an ISP…an Internet Service Provider.

My amateur research also turned out that coax cables are more fragile like when going around corners or getting hit/stepped on. That’s what made me go with a Cat6 ethernet cable.

Not sure if that was the best option or if that’s entirely accurate, but it’s what I chose.

Is any other device using your network?

Is your internet satellite or anything?

I’m just going to save this comment and thank you now. Thanks!

pc witch

Probably some sort of witchcraft going on there.

I couldn’t tell you if it’s a bandwidth thing or a power spike thing. It is a pretty weird scenario. Hopefully someone else can help you, I just wanted to make my joke about the typo

I think instead of a “secondary router”, you’re looking for an Access Point (AP). You could give that a search, or mesh WiFi stuff, or a WiFi extender. I’m not a pro, but these are some products that seem like they might help with your scenario.

It seems like a better course of action would be to try to get the router closer to the TV though, since that’s in a more central location. Is that not possible?